On Greys

Do you ever think about how much beauty is simply fighting the inevitable? I’d hardly describe myself as a “go with the flow” sort of person, but at the same time, how exhausting (and expensive) is it to try to swim against the tide in perpetuity? There’s a vast ocean of difference between electing not to participate in a common ritual and giving up on how you present yourself.

I started getting pesky greys before I hit 30. Naturally, they chose to present front and center around my part. So, like any mature, sane, well-adjusted woman – I plucked them on sight. Of course, this means you don’t have a solid idea of how much you have.

Last autumn, I stopped as an experiment.

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I Dew Care Tap Secret Dry Shampoo

I Dew Care Tap Secret Non-Aerosol Dry Shampoo

I’ve been harping about aerosol dry shampoos being a problem for a while now. I’ve switched to tapioca starch. But maybe you aren’t as much of a DIY-sort or just don’t want to mess with all of that, and I hear you.

Sometimes, you just aren’t up for a project (though it is low effort, I swear). Sometimes, we just need something that’s ready-to-use without the potential for a mess.

I Dew Care has a great little non-foam, non-aerosol dry shampoo for you – Tap Secret ($10-16). It’s most cost-effective to buy 3 (to get it to $10 ea), so if you have friends or family members who might appreciate it as a holiday gift or want to try it, I recommend that route!

I loved the idea of it so much that I bought I Dew Care Tap Secret to try despite having a solution that works for me. And I haven’t been just buying things to try them!

As an added bonus – the container is reusable! I figured even if the contents aren’t for me, I’d get a super-convenient tapioca starch dispenser.

How to Use I Dew Care Tap Secret Dry Shampoo

To use it, you uncap it and tap the foam puff along your hairline. I tend to do my part, make another part/section, and tap again. Then, just like you’d use any other powdery dry shampoo (even aerosol), massage it in and shake it out, done.

I haven’t traveled in a long time, now, but I really love the idea of this dispenser for travel. No tiny aerosol to jam in your quart bag. No benzene.

Happily, there was no discernable fragrance which is a big win for me. Likewise, it did a nice job of absorbing oil without leaving a white cast or greyishness once it was massaged in. It definitely got me through another day without shampooing.

What I Didn’t Like (but You May)

One thing that was a drawback for me personally is that this dry shampoo has clay as an ingredient. You may enjoy depending on your preferences! It’s great as an oil absorbing agent, and it means a little goes a long way. For me, though, using enough to get the job done gave my hair some hair some, “teeth,” or grip. This is great for volume, but can come at the cost of the ability to run your fingers through it.

The downside of this quality, though, is that it feels awful to run your fingers through. It isn’t unique; if you’re used to using texturizing powders like this one from Big Sexy Hair (oh, cool – they now have a lighter option, Lite, that I haven’t tried) or this one from Kristen Ess, it’s a similar feeling.

I think those products have their place (indeed; I own the Kristen Ess one and have used the original Big Sexy Hair one), but by themselves, they aren’t dry shampoos. That quality isn’t what I’m looking for in a regular dry shampoo product. I still want my hair to mostly feel like hair.

On the upside, it washes out easily so no problems there. I’ll use it, but I’d definitely use it when I planned to shampoo the next day. It may also be one of those products that is best used before your hair seems oily – so I will need to report back on that.

What I’m Unsure Of Regarding Tap Secret.

Since the applicator sponge is integrated with the packaging, I don’t know if you can take it off to clean it. Given the nature of the product, I’d think you’d want to eventually if you’re reusing the container. Despite my critique of the contents, I’m not ready to swap them for tapioca starch yet (maybe I’ll find a use for those properties), so I haven’t disassembled it to find out.

The Bottom Line

Finally, I would recommend I Dew Care Tap Secret dry shampoo despite not being completely satisfied with the texture aspect. Having a thorough understanding of the texture will help you use it effectively and work around what I consider its only critical point.

Apres Gel X Extra Short: Amazing, Not Short

Buckle up, this is a long one.

I saw the Apres Gel X extension kits some time ago. I’m not one for long or dramatic nails, but I was excited about the concept the way I was excited about Polygel. I thought this had the potential to be a very cool tool to create overlays without much fuss. AND it is readily available to us mere mortals.

Then, I forgot about them for a while because their length options were absolutely insane for someone who, well, works. I type all day and take care of my property. I can’t have talons not only from a functional standpoint but a noise one. I’d drive myself insane. I need something that’s more like an overlay with just a little length.

But Then…

This Spring, Apres released an Extra Short length for many of their tip styles. I decided to buy some of their tips ($29.99 at the time), their prep products ($8.99 ea), and their Extend gel ($22.99) to give it a shot as a graduation gift to myself.

They finally arrived, and I set forth to do a set.

First Impressions

My first reaction was that these were absurdly long for something purportedly extra short. In what universe are these extra short? I admit that my nail beds themselves aren’t super long, and perhaps on someone whose nailbeds ARE long, they will be appropriately extra short. But these were STILL in, “I cannot function with these things as-is,” territory. No matter; we can file.

It would be nice, though, if Apres had measurements of their tips to give customers a realistic idea of what they’re purchasing. As is, they have some comparison photos – but without a frame of reference.

See how much longer than my nail this is? And as you can see, I DID have a free edge!

Apres Gel X Sizing

I started to work on fitting tips to my nails. Despite their recently-expanded sizing range, I struggled with this a bit. I’m also surprised, candidly; I would not describe these sizes as inclusive. Apres recently added half sizes to some of the smaller nails (i.e., 4.5) but no half sizes in the thumb-appropriate range, and also the largest nail, a 00, is pretty small overall.

I have small nails, and 00 would’ve almost been a fit. For me, I was somewhere between 0 and 1; I went with 1 and this was probably a mistake based on how application went and how they feel.

Apres Gel X Application

Application, despite my thumbs, was very, very easy. I’m extremely impressed by the product, and I am so, so excited this exists.

The process goes something like this:

  • Lightly buff natural nail as you would to prep for gel polish.
  • Etch the inner surface of the enhancement, where it will contact the natural nail using an e-file or buffer.
  • Apply pH bonder and primer to nails.
  • Apply a thin coat of Extend Gel to your natural nails; cure 30sec in LED/60sec in UV.
  • Apply a thin coat of Extend Gel to the etched area of the extension plus a small bead at the base of the extension.

Here’s where things get interesting:

  • Apply the extension to the nail from the cuticle edge, at an angle so you’re kind of squishing the gel to distribute across the nail. Maintain pressure to maintain contact; you’ll know its right if it is clear. If you have weird gaps/bubbles, you don’t have good contact (true for my thumbs).
  • This is the hard part: While maintaining pressure, flash cure for ten seconds. Ideally, you’ll be holding the free edge of the nail so the part in contact with your nail bed can fully cure. If you can’t do that due to your lamp or dexterity or both (hi, it’s me), start the cure and then cautiously move to allow the area you’re covering to cure.
  • Finish that hand by repeating the above steps, then cure everything for 30sec in LED or 60 in UV. They should look like this:
Apres Gel X Extra Short Coffin. Pardon the not-great cuticles, I came back to them.
  • Shape them with a file if/as needed. Make sure you’re in a well-ventilated space when you do this, and that you’ve prepared your workspace with the expectation that there’s going to be a ton of dust to clean (there will be). I put down a rag that could catch a lot of it that I could then shake into the trash.
    • That said, I really recommend an e-file (I have one like this) for working with these if you need to do significant filing. A hand file will still be desired for fine-tuning, but you’ll be filing forever by hand if that’s all you do.
  • Once shaped, remove any excess dust, wipe the tips with an alcohol wipe to be very sure, and you’re ready to paint – if you will be painting. Because these enhancements ARE gel, you can apply gel polish to these directly without additional prep.

Since my idea of, “extra short,” and Apres’ idea of, “extra short,” are two very, very different things, I had to file the living hell out of these with an e-file to shorten them. I wasn’t happy about that – the amount of filing I needed to make them actually extra short defeated the time-savings I hoped they’d be for me. All said and done, this set took about 60-75 minutes. Not bad for using a new product/method, but not quite what I hoped for in a, “daily driver,” candidate.

Filed down and polished with Luxio Smoulder; indoors with flash

Appearance

They are gorgeous. The clear tips are truly crystal clear, and the neutral tips I bought were a pretty nude-to-me. They’re slightly thicker at the free edge than at the cuticle edge, which is great from a structure perspective. You don’t get bulk at the cuticle, but you get strength further out. They take gel polish beautifully with no additional prep to the outside of the tip. They were a joy to paint, and they didn’t give me any trouble with polish lifting or chipping.

Durability

Apres Gel X are stunningly durable. Honestly, I wish the length was more in line with my needs because they wore like absolute iron. I had them on for two-and-a-half weeks before I had to take them off for length (due to growth) reasons.

I only had slight lifting at the cuticle edge on two nails at this point: my right index finger (first) and that wonky initially-applied left-thumb (second).

This is the experience I hoped for the first time I got acrylics (which I was misinformed were gel) from a salon a stunning 14+ years ago.

Pricing and Availability

This product isn’t gatekept for professionals only! You don’t have to have a Cosmoprof membership or a license to buy them. They also aren’t absurdly expensive!🙌

You can buy Apres Gel X direct, from specialty nail distributors like Beyond Polish or similar, or most recently, you can buy from Apres via Amazon (which wasn’t a thing when I bought them), with many products qualifying for two-day Prime shipping. The full line up isn’t on Amazon, but its still pretty cool.

Refills

In addition to starter boxes of tips (which range 500-600 pieces), you can buy refill bags of just the size you need. For example, a lot of people use the same size on their ring and index fingers. Instead of buying a whole box of sizes that don’t fit you, once you know what you need you can just buy the tips that fit. Refill bags are $3.49 each for 50 pieces. That is a hell of a price once you know what you need!

Mini Boxes

Apres also offers mini boxes of tips (280 pieces) now for $16.99. They weren’t doing this when I ordered these several months ago, or else that’s the route I’d have gone. Why start small? Well, with a smaller pack you can:

  • see if you like them
  • experiment with their other shapes (they have square, coffin, almond, round, and stilletto) or lengths
  • or find your sizes, then use more of your budget to buy those refill bags!

The Bottom Line

If you can handle the length, I can’t recommend these enough. Apres Gel X is the gold standard for nail enhancements between their quality, ease-of-application for non-professionals, and service acceleration for professionals. Their prep products are top-notch and would do equally well for basic gel polishing as they would as adhesion prep for these enhancements. I am so impressed.

Despite the level of detail and nuance in my application instructions, they were truly easy to apply – far easier than Polygel, acrylic dual forms, or dip manicures. If you don’t want or need to aggressively file them to a usable length, application is FAST. The surface is flawless; no fussing with sculpting or self leveling.

But my hope was to take my existing hour-ish long prep and polish application down to 30-45 since I wouldn’t have to address surface imperfections. Even with practice, the amount of filing I need for them to be doable won’t get that fast.

I ultimately regifted my Gel X tips to my niece who does nails for a living (she, too, is singing their praises from a quality and workflow standpoint – her clientele is not averse to length, so they’re a great addition to her services), but I would absolutely buy if Apres released an extra-extra short, or if I get to a place where I can feel good about spending that much time on my nails. For now, I’m back to just doing gel polish.

Reformulated: Kirkland Signature Shampoo and Conditioner

Costco reformulated Kirkland Signature Shampoo and Conditioner

We had a good run, Costco Kirkland Signature Shampoo and Conditioner. I’ve been using this duo since the TRESemme-induced hair loss I shared in January 2021, but alas – I’ve run afoul of a discontinuation-style issue.

This Again?

It isn’t a true discontinuation. Costco reformulated within the last year or so. I only just started using the new formula at the end of June because I was still working through my liter bottles of the previous formula.

I didn’t realize it was a reformulation (as opposed to just a packaging refresh) until three weeks ago. My hair started becoming a nightmare to wrangle again, symptomatic of overexposure to protein (everyone is different, you may never experience this!), but it didn’t click immediately.

Was it stress? No, that’s just a constant at this point. Eventually, I scrutinized the ingredients list on the new bottles – yep, go figure. The old formula had protein, but it was one of the last few ingredients – so there was less of a concentration of it. It doesn’t seem like my hair can’t deal with any, just either 1) high concentrations and/or 2) specific varieties. Alas, my hair is not tolerating the Costco Kirkland Signature Shampoo and Conditioner’s new formula well.

If it is still working well for you, GOOD! I still have faith in the product. This time, truly, I am the problem.

What Now?

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Starch as Non-Aerosol Dry Shampoo

I switched away from conventional, aerosol dry shampoo well-before the news broke that the dry shampoo cans have been spewing poison at an uncomfortable rate. Instead, I use tapioca starch as non-aerosol dry shampoo to minimize oil between washes.

Non-aerosol dry shampoos have been available for a while. However, many of them come in the form of foam that claims to dry quickly. I haven’t tried them personally as they seem impractical; even if they dry fast, damp-looking roots can still be a problem. If I have time for damp hair, I would prefer to wash and dry it quickly.

Instead, on Jean’s advice, I use tapioca starch decanted into a few containers that I apply with a brush or puff. I realize this might sound like lunacy, so here’s more detail on HOW I go about using it:

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How Retinoids Changed my Skin Routine

Retinoids Changed my Skin Routine

I shared that I stopped using OTC retinol products after learning how they lose potency fast. I switched to a prescription retinoid, Tretinoin, which has extensive research and time in the market behind it. It works, and it remains stable over its shelf life – which is more than can be said by cosmetic OTC retinols.

I expected to see improved results over, say, Paula’s Choice, Inkey List, or InnBeauty. But retinoids changed my skin routine in ways I didn’t expect, too.

Retinoids Changed my Skin Routine – Fewer Steps, Fewer Products

When you’re incorporating a serious retinoid into your routine, best practice is to discontinue all other treatments to give your skin time to adjust. I pared back to the basics: cleanse, moisturize, retinoid, sunscreen. No acids, no toners, no treatments or whatsoever else. I did reincorporate Vitamin C in the morning, which I previously used, once I had adjusted.

A typical skincare day looks like this:

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